I have a beard (this is Drew writing, by the way). To see this and much more, visit our photo album. I also have a story for you:
03-11-06
Nearly 4 hours from Pietermarizburg, there is a very remote and traditional Zulu village called Nqutu, where people still make their homes with grass roofs, mud walls, and dried, compressed cow manure for floors. Behind each home is an outhouse (also made entirely of mud…no porcelain :-), which is built above a massive hole in the ground. These holes usually last about five years (depending on the size of the family) before they have to build another outhouse.

Apparently, white people never visit Nqutu. Not because it’s dangerous (the more traditional a village is, the safer and more stable it tends to be) but simply because it is so remote…and so poor.
The people of Nqutu were doubtful when they heard that Leah and I were coming (and only later did we fully understand why). Some did not believe that we would show up; others did not even believe that we existed. But just in case it was true, the whole village prepared for our arrival.
Our contact in the village was Kate. She grew up in Nqutu, but moved to Johannesburg so that her children could attend better schools. Kate is friendly and motherly and warm…strong, dedicated, and very bright. She is not only a nurse at a major hospital in Johannesburg; she also runs the home-based healthcare program that drew us to Nqutu.
Kate met up with us outside the village and we rode to the church where everyone had been working since 4:00 a.m. to prepare for our arrival. We pulled into the churchyard (there is no driveway because there are no cars) and before I even got out of the car, I knew it was going to be a great day. The people were clearly very excited to see us…bustling and smiling and staring as we drove up.
Leah and I enjoyed breakfast and tea in a picnic tent erected next to the church as the choirs warmed up outside. Between bites, we were exchanging looks of surprise and joyful disbelief that our visit had inspired this surreal reception.
When it was time to begin the program, one of the 6 choirs surrounded us and began singing “Walking in the light of God” as we shuffled into the church building. The next three hours went by so quickly as different choirs sang and as people talked about the health concerns of the community and how they have been addressing them. Children from the local school performed, some teenage boys did a traditional Zulu dance, and another group presented us with a gift that they made for us. Leah and I just soaked in the overflow of joy and love from this community as they sang and played music and welcomed us to their village.
After that, the day went by quickly. We had lunch with some community leaders and visited the homes of some of the sick people who receive home-based care. More than any other place we have visited to this point, we were welcomed in Nqutu.
At the beginning of this entry, I mentioned that the people were doubtful that we would come. It turns out that people from outside the village had promised to visit three times before, and they never showed up. Three times before us, this village had prepared for guests like us; and three times they were disappointed. The excuse they gave to Kate for not coming was this: “we’re scared that the people will turn on us and kill us or rob us.”
It’s a shame because Leah and I received more hugs and smiles and gifts this day than we had
on any day up to that point. These were the most hospitable and warm people we’ve met, and we feel sorry for that group who will never have the chance to meet the people of Nqutu.